Token's Hooky Love

Lalique Bubble Bag

2010-04-19T17:59:00.001+01:00

Right, finally got around to posting the pattern for this cute little bag. I'm currently using mine as a make up bag. Bear with me on this one - the pattern is untested and I'm working from a few scrappy notes I made at the time. I'm going to make a couple more of these bags so that should hopefully flag up any issues.

You will need about 120 metres of super chunky yarn - I used Rowan Little Big Wool which is 5-6 wpi to give you an idea, a 9mm crochet hook and a stitch marker. Make sure your yarn has a high percentage of animal fibre and is not superwash wool otherwise it is unlikely to felt. If in doubt swatch first.

Gauge is not important with this pattern - use a lighter weight wool for a smaller bag or a heavier/double strand for a larger bag. For any yarn substitutions make sure you also change your hook size to suit.

Abbreviations (note this pattern uses UK terms)

Sl St - slip stitch

Ch - Chain

Dc - Double crochet

Htr - Half treble crochet.

Tr - Treble

Dtr - Double treble

Ttr - Triple treble

Tr2tog - Treble 2 together

FLO - Front loop only

BLO - Back loop only

Bag Side (make 2)

Ch 4, Sl St to join and form ring.

Row 1: Ch 2 (counts as stitch) dc into ring 5 times sl st to join (6dc) Mark last st and move marker up as each row is completed

Row 2: Ch 2 (counts as stitch) dc in same st. 2dc in each st around, sl st to join. (12 dc)

Row 3: Ch 2 (counts as stitch) dc in same st. *dc in next st 2dc in next st. Repeat from * around. Sl st to join. (18 dc)

Row 4: Ch 2 (counts as stitch) dc in same st. *dc in next 2 sts, 2dc in netx st. Repeat from * around. Sl st to join. (24 dc)

Rows 5-8: Continue to increase 7 sts per round as set pattern above. 48 dc at the end of row 8.

Row 9: Working in FLO htr evenly around. Sl st to join (48 htr) End off.

Row 10: Rejoin yarn to back loop of any st in row 8. All sts in this round are worked BLO. *Sl st in next 3 sts, dc in next 2sts, htr in next st, 2htr in next st, tr in next st, 2tr in next st, dtr in next st, 2dtr in next st, 2ttr in next st, 2ttr in next st, 2dtr in next st, dtr in next st, 2tr in next st, tr in next st, 2htr in next st, htr in next st, dc in next 2sts, sl st in next 3 sts. Repeat from * Sl st to join. (60 sts)

Row 11: Ch 1, Dc in same space, dc in next 3 sts, 2dc in next st, htr in next 2 sts, 2htr in next st, tr in next 2 sts, 2 tr in next st, dtr in next 8 sts, 2 tr in next st, tr in next 2 sts, 2htr in next st, htr in next 2 sts, 2dc in next st, dc in next 4 sts, sl st to join. End off (66 sts)

Bottom/Sides (make 1)

Ch 9

Row 1: Tr in 3rd chain from hook, tr in each ch across (6tr) Turn.

Row 2: Ch 3, Tr in each tr across (6tr) Turn.

Rows 3 - 20: Repeat row 2

Row 21: Ch 3 Tr2tog twice, tr in last tr. Turn
Row 22: Ch 3, Tr2tog, tr in last tr Turn
Row 23: Ch 3 tr 2 tog. End off

Rejoin yarn to end of foundation chain at row 1 and work rows 21-23.

To make up the bag:
Line up the centre of the bottom strip with the centre of the bag side and pin together ( I found it easier to fix one side at a time, remember to have right sides facing when you do this which is the side with the raised front loop trebles) Starting from the centre out for eveness, Sl st the end of each of the bag bottom rows to every other bag side stitch. This creates the bubble effect. Repeat for the second side. Close the bag further with a couple of sl sts past the end point of the side piece. Turn right side out. I also added a row of htrs around the opening of the bag top. Your bag should be looking a little like this:

All thats left is to pop it in the wash to felt - I put mine in a pillow case and chucked it in with my usual washing at 60 degrees.

Lining is optional, I use mine unlined but added a magnetic snap to close.

Hope you enjoy making Lalique!

Lalique & The Ravelympics

2010-02-28T19:00:00.000Z

For the past couple of weeks I've been busily working on my Ravelympics projects to coincide with the winter olympics over on Ravelry one of which was an original bag design inspired by a Rene Lalique ashtray!

Here are the first pictures of my finished Lalique Bubble Bag.

This little pink pin was crafted from a pair of old stripey jeans and an earing! I think it really suits the bag.

So when I get a chance I'll be writing up the pattern and in the meantime I'm working on a box bag version of the bag which will be, well, boxier!

My patterns on Crochet Me

2010-01-19T22:21:00.001Z

The first patterns I ever wrote are available for free on Crochet Me. They're both headband/hat things that let you stick your hair out the top. If you don't know what I mean then you better check them out!

Bobble Head - Crochet Me

Morphy - Crochet Me

Spinning a Yarn....

2010-01-17T20:46:00.001Z

...Literally! Today I made my first ever handspun yarn so I'm feeling rather pleased with myself. I started off with some pink fluffy stuff for practice, no idea what it was and I ended up with this

Not bad for a first try I thought! Then I set the twist and made my first ever skein. Ta da!

It's not perfect but I was feeling confident enough to dig out the shetland fibre I bought at the Manchester Yarn Day and after a bit of drafting I had a lovely pile of purple fluff (and purple hands!) So I spun that up too which was bit more difficult since the fibres seemed much more coarse than the last lot, and it's currently hanging upstairs to dry. This is the stuff, from local spinner and dyer Krafty Koala. The colourway is called Butterfly. Lovely.

So after a rather productive day I went in to the kitchen and made an apple crumble. Now that's another first!

Web of Winter hat

2010-01-06T20:45:00.003Z

I decided I've been spending too much time knitting recently (now that I seem to be getting better at it!) so I picked up my poor neglected hooks the other day to make myself a new winter hat, something nice and chunky and warm for venturing out in all the snow we've had.

You will need a 6.5mm hook and a 5.5mm hook, and approximately 160 metres of chunky weight yarn (I used James C. Brett marble chunky)

This pattern is written in UK terms

Abbreviations:
Sl st - Slip stitch
Dc - Double crochet
Tr - Treble crochet
FPtr - Front post treble crochet
FPdbltr - front post double treble crochet.
ch - chain
blo - back loop only

Using 6.5mm hook Ch 4, sl st in first ch to form a ring

Rnd 1: Ch 3 (counts as first tr), work 11 tr in ring, sl st to the top of ch 3 (12 tr total)

Rnd 2: Ch 3, fptr around post of the starting ch3 from the previous row
-tr in blo of next st, and fptr around the tr that is located one row below
repeat until you have 12 fpdc’s. sl st to the top of ch 3.

Rnd 3: Sl st into next st. Ch 3, *fptr around the post of the fptr one row below
tr in blo of next 2 sts repeat from * around, ending the
round with one tr after last fptr. Sl st to the top of starting ch 3.

Rnd 4: Sl st into next st. Ch 3, fptr around the post of the fptr one row below
*tr in blo of next 3 sts repeat from * around, ending the
round with 2 tr after last fptr. Sl st to the top of starting ch 3.

Rnd 5: Sl st into next st. Ch 3, *fptr around the post of the fptr one row below
tr in blo of next 4 sts repeat from * around, ending the
round with 3 tr after last fptr. Sl st to the top of starting ch 3.

Rnd 6: Sl st into next st. Ch 3, *fptr around the post of the fptr one row below
tr in blo of next 5 sts repeat from * around, ending the
round with 4 tr after last fptr. Sl st to the top of starting ch 3.

Rnd 7: Sl st into next st. Ch 3, *fptr around the post of the fptr one row below
tr in blo of next 3 sts, tr tog over next 2 sts, sk next st (top of FPtr) repeat from * around, ending the round with 2 tr and tr tog after last fptr. Sk next st and sl st to the top of starting ch 3.

Rnd 8: Sl st into next st. Ch 3, *fpdbltr around the post of the fptr one row below
tr in blo of next 4 sts sk next st (top of Fptr) repeat from * around, ending the
round with 3 tr after last fptr. Sk next st and sl st to the top of starting ch 3.

Rnd 9: Sl st into next st. Ch 3, *fpdbltr around the post of the fpdbltr one row below
tr in blo of next 4 sts sk next st (top of Fpdbltr) repeat from * around, ending the
round with 3 tr after last fptr. Sk next st and sl st to the top of starting ch 3.

Rnds 8-13: Repeat rnd 9

Rnd 14: using 5.5mm hook ch1, dc in each st around. Sl st to join

Rnd 15: Repeat rnd 14

Rnd 16: ch 1 *dc in next 8 sts, dc tog over next 2 sts. Repeat from *around sl st to join.

Rnd 17: ch 1 dc in each st around.

Rnds 18-24: Repeat rnd 17

End off and enjoy!

Sophie's Purse

2009-12-29T12:26:00.003Z

This cute little vintage style purse was a quick present for my cousin Sophie who loves all things green.

To make your own you will need:

10cm x 5cm purse frame (this frame is a small silver frame from u-handbag for tips on using other purse frames see my notes at the end of this post)
Textile glue
Approximately 115m of DK weight yarn - I used Elle Rustica for a vintage tweed effect.
3.75mm knitting needles
Some material for lining
Needle and thread
4mm Crochet hook or darning needle for side seams

Cast on 44 stitches. This should measure 20cm which is half the circumference of the purse frame.

Row 1: Knit
Row 2: Purl

Repeat these two rows until the piece measures approximately 8 inches.
Cast off

Fold in half with right sides facing. To join seams either slip stitch the stitches at the ends of the rows together using a crochet hook, or simply sew up the side.

Turn right side out. Using the knitted piece as a template, place on the lining material and draw around leaving approximately half an inch seam allowance. Cut two pieces of lining material the same size.

With right sides facing sew around edges with needle an thread. Place inside knitted purse piece. It is important that the lining fits really well and is the same size or even slightly bigger than the knitted exterior, since the knitting can stretch. This will make fixing to the frame much easier!

Sew the lining to the top of the purse, then fix to the frame using the textile glue. It will be much easier to fix with the frame open fully, fixing one half of the frame at a time. For tips on fixing to purse frames there is a great tutorial here

To create the shape of the purse, push the bottom corners in on themselves (they probably look a little pointy at present!) and secure with a couple of stitches.

The flower on this purse is a pattern from the Encyclopedia of Crochet by Jan Eaton called 'Frilly flower' and is secured with a vintage button from my stash.
There are many free flower patterns available to try so you can make your purse unique!

Notes on using other purse frames: To modify this pattern to suit a different purse frame simply open the purse frame fully and measure the perimeter of the frame. Divide this measurement by two and this should be the approximate width of the piece you are knitting. Simply add or subtract the number of stitches in the row to suit your gauge and the purse frame. The length of the piece you knit should be twice the depth of the finished purse. Just be aware that if your purse frame is not flat across the top then the purse will not be flat across the bottom and you may have to shape the ends of your knitting, but it would be an interesting experiment!

Crochet Poppy

2009-11-06T19:54:00.001Z

I quickly made this last night, so here is my free crochet poppy pattern. Please, if you make a poppy, make sure you also make a donation to the poppy appeal - thats all I ask!

You will need:
DK weight yarn
3.5mm crochet hook.
A button
Needle and thread

Gauge is not really important.

The pattern: (all crochet terms are UK)

Ch4, sl st to form ring.

1st Petal:
1. Ch 3, dtr into loop 7 times, 1 tr into loop, turn
2. Ch 2, tr in each st across, htr in last st, turn.
3. Sk 1st st. Sl st in next st, htr in next 2 sts, 2htr in next st, htr in next 2 sts, sl st in next st. End off.

Rejoin yarn to centre ch 4.

2nd Petal
1. Ch 3, dtr into loop 9 times, 1 tr into loop, turn
2. Ch 2, *1 tr in next st. 2 tr in next st, repeat from * In last st make 1tr and 1 htr. turn
3. SK next st. Sl st in next st *htr in next 2 sts, 2htr in next st. Repeat from* When 2 sts remain, dc in next st, sl st in next st. End off.

Weave in ends and sew button to centre.

Starburst Purse

2009-06-03T22:08:00.002+01:00

Here's a variation on the Spirale Purse using a lovely 4 ply bamboo yarn.

You will need: 3mm hook, approximately 110 metres of 4 ply yarn (I used Wendy Happy) material for lining, needle and thread, 10 x 5cm purse frame and textile glue (see spirale pattern for details)

Approximate Gauge: Diameter after 10 rows = xcm, 22sts = 10cm

Abbreviations: (note all stitches are in UK terminology)

st - stitch
sts - stitches
sk - skip
sp - space
sl st - slip stitch
flo - front loop only
ch - chain
dc - double crochet
htr - half treble
tr - treble
dtr - double treble
fptr - front post treble
tr2tog - treble 2 together

Pattern:

Work in a continuous in the roundfor rows 1-10.

Row 1: Ch 5, sl st to form a circle.

Row 2: Ch 3, 11tr in to circle, sl st to top of ch 3

Row 3: Ch 3, fptr around last st of previous row (the tr before the first ch 3) *tr in next st, fptr in next st of previous row. Repeat from * around ending with tr, sl st in to top of ch 3.

Row 4: Ch 3 *fptr around fptr in row below and to the right, tr in next 2 sts. Repeat from * around, tr in last st, sl st to top of ch3

Row5: Sl st to st on left of next fptr. Ch3, *fptr around fptr in row below. tr in next st, fptr in tr one to the right in row below, tr in next 2 sts. Repeat from * around, sl st to top of ch 3

Row 6: Sl st in next st. Ch 3, *fptr around fptr in row below, tr in next 2 sts, fptr in fptr of row below, sk next st, repeat from * around. After last fptr sl st into top of ch 3.

Row 7: Sl st in next 2 sts, *fptr around fptr in previous row, tr in next 3 sts, fptr around fptr in previous row, sk next st, tr in next 2 sts. Repeat from * around, after last fptr sl st to top of ch 3.

Row 8: Sl st in next st. Ch3, *fptr around fptr in previous row, sk next st, tr in next 3 sts, fptr around fptr in previous row, tr in next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. Sl st to top of ch 3

Row 9: Sl st in next st. Ch3 *Fptr around fptr in previous row, tr in next 4 sts, fptr around fptr in previous row, sk next st, tr in next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. After last fptr sl st to top of ch3.

Row 10: Sl st in next st, ch3 * fptr around fptr in previous row. Sk next st, tr in next 4 sts, fptr around fptr in previous row, tr in next 4 sts. Repeat from * around. Sl st to top of ch 3

End of working in circle. Turn work, all sts in row 11 are flo. Do not use top of fptr sts - use the four tr sts between

Row 11: Ch1, dc in next st, htr in next st, tr in next st, (dtr,ch1,dtr) in next st, tr in next 2 sts, htr in next 17 sts, tr in next 2 sts, (dtr,ch1,dtr) in next st, tr in next st, htr in next st, dc in next st, sl st in next st. End off.

Row 12: With RS facing join yarn to left corner (the ch1 space between dtr's). Ch4, dtr in next st, tr in next 2 sts, htr in next 2 sts, dc in next 12 sts, htr in next 2 sts, tr in next 2 sts, dtr in next 2 sts (last tr is in corner sp). Turn work.

Row 13: Ch3, tr in next st, tr2tog over next 2 sts, tr in next 2 sts, htr in next 12 sts, tr in next 2 sts, tr2tog over next 2 sts, tr in next 2 sts.

Making up: Follow the same method used in the Spirale purse pattern.

Spirale Button Purse

2009-05-26T21:21:00.001+01:00

I had a bit of free time over the weekend so I quickly put this pattern together for a birthday present. The yarn has silk through it and it just feels great.

You will need around 55 metres of aran weight yarn (I used Patons Dew) a 4.5mm crochet hook, two buttons, some material for lining, a yarn needle, a sewing needle, some thread, a 10cm x 5cm purse frame and some textile glue. (I got the frame and glue from http://www.u-handbag.com/ )

Approximate gauge: diameter after 9 rows = xcm, 16sts = 10cm to fit purse frame.
It's easy enough to adjust the purse size depending on the frame. The purse diameter can be increased by adding rows follwing the same increase of 9 sts per row (or omitting rows for a smaller diameter) and the top of the purse can be adjusted by increasing or decreasing the number of htr in the centre of row 10. For more depth add rows of dc.

Abbreviations (note all terms used in this pattern are in UK terminology):
st - stitch
sts - stitches
blo - Back loop only
Ch - chain
sl st - slip stitch
dc - double crochet
htr - half treble
tr - treble
dtr - double treble
WS - wrong side
RS - right side

Pattern:
Purse body - make 2
Ch5 sl st into 1st ch to join.
Row 1: Ch 2 (counts as dc) 8dc in circle. (9sts)
Do not join. Work rows in a spiral. Mark end of each row with a stitch marker and move up as purse progresses. All sts worked in blo.
Row 2: 2dc in each dc around (18sts)
Row 3: (Dc in next dc, 2dc in next dc) Repeat around. (27sts)
Row 4: (dc in next 2dc, 2dc in next dc) Repeat around (36sts)
Row 5: (dc in next 3dc, 2dc in next dc) Repeat around (45sts)
Row 6: (dc in next 4dc, 2dc in next dc) Repeat around (54sts)
Row 7: (dc in next 5dc, 2dc in next dc) Repeat around (63sts)
Row 8: (dc in next 6dc, 2dc in next dc) Repeat around (72sts)
Row 9: (dc in next 7dc, 2dc in next dc) Repeat around (81sts)
End of spiral rounds.
Row 10: dc in next dc, htr in next dc, tr in next dc (dtr, ch1, dtr) in next dc, tr in next 2 dc, htr in next 9dc, tr in next 2dc, (dtr, ch1 dtr) in next dc, tr in next dc, htr in next dc, dc in next dc, sl st into next dc. End off.
Row 11: With RS facing join yarn to right hand corner (ch1 sp between dtr) Ch2 (counts as dc) working in blo htr in each st across ending with htr in ch1 sp (16 htr)
Row 12: Turn work ch2 (counts as htr) working in blo htr in each st across. (16 htr) End off.

To make up the purse:
with WS facing sew around circular part of purse only. Turn the right way round. Sew a button to the centre of each side of the purse.
Fold the lining material in half and trace around purse. Cut out. With RS facing sew around circular portion of lining. Place inside the purse body and place a few sts around the open edge of purse to hold lining in place. With the textile glue, attach purse body to frame.

Chunky Bangle Pattern

2009-05-21T19:58:00.002+01:00

So, I needed a space for my crochet patterns and I thought hey, why not try out this blogging malarkey, and here I am.

I'll start with something relatively simple. This pattern was originally going to be a submission for the CLF 3rd book but I sort of missed the deadline. Nevermind, here it is in all it's glory and for free too!

I like these bangles, they're comfy and they don't make a loud racket when you move your arms!

I used Rowan Cotton Rope (Aran weight) but any aran weight would do. Gauge is not important, just make sure the starting chain can fit around your wrist!

I used a 4.5mm hook, smaller than stated on the yarn, just to make the gauge tight so the bangle has more structure.

Oh and just to make things more complicated I write in UK terms!

Abbreviations:

ch: chain

dc: double crochet

sl st: slip stitch

blo: back loop only

ws: wrong side

sts: stitches

Ch 35, sl st into 1st chain to join (careful not to twist the chain!)

Row 1: Ch 1, dc in one leg of each foundation ch around. Sl st into 1st dc to join

Row 2: Work all sts in blo. Ch 1, dc in each dc around. Sl st to 1st dc to join

Rows 3 & 4: Repeat row 2

To finish, fold in half with ws facing to form bangle shape. Sl st around, joining blo of Row 4 to one leg of foundation ch. end off.

For the black and red bangle I alternated the colours each row, for the red and yellow I changed colour for rows 2&3 then back to the original colour for row 4

Happy bangling!